Grace, Again //(Leaving) Stuttgart

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Another week has passed, and I again find myself with too much to say.
We left Berlin on Saturday (forgotten leftovers and 15 hrs with no wifi getting a sore bum – see last post), and arrived in Stuttgart close to midnight. A family Olivia knows through student exchange picked us up at the bus stop, and took us to their home where we had showers and wonderful, flat beds. (Sleeping sitting up is like… half sleeping. Actually more like it takes rest from you.)

The next day we slept in, then the family were our tour guides around the region. The parents, one of their daughters, and her boyfriend drove us through the winding trails of German countryside to a small village (dorf). We climbed to the top of an old church where we could see the whole town, then on the street level again the parents gave us cash for ice cream cones while the two of them enjoyed some coffee drinks at the ever-present street cafes. Then we went on, to an old cloister. That night we had Spätzle, a very traditional and o-so-delicious German meal.

Over the next couple days we again got to enjoy being a part of a relaxed, kind German family. They oooh and applaud everytime I say something in German, even though it’s infinitely small sentences, like “sleep well” and “jam, please.” We spent a relaxed day sightseeing and shopping in Stuttgart, and even tried on some “Dirdls,” the typical Bavarian- Southern Germany feminine garb and companion to men in lederhosen. We looked rather fantastic, if I say so myself, and I did not want to put the beautiful red dress back. If I had 200 euros and room in my backpack…

The next day we traveled 2 hours to a small town in the Black Forest called Bad Wildbad. The night before the family had helped us figure out where to go and how to get there to achieve the goal of hiking in the “SchwarzWald.” We didn’t have a plan except for “hike,” so obtained maps and suggestions from the tourist info center. Very useful places, those. Every town should have one (*cough* Aalborg *cough*).

The hike we found was not too long, we climbed up a hill, ate lunch on top, hiked around a bit on the ridge, then came back down with the company of an amiable old German couple. Another 2 hours back by train turned it into an all day event. Because Stuttgart is above the Black Forest, it wasn’t time efficient to travel further south, which is apparently more beautiful (of course, it’s closer to Switzerland). The forest we hiked through was gorgeous, a bit different foliage and trees than at home but pretty similiar. The part I found especially beautiful about the Black Forest was to pull back and look at the view. The rolling green hills stretched to the horizon, and the small German dorfs nestled in the valleys between, made for a charming view.

I find the idea of people telling you what is the best rather funny. I mean, obviously there is usually a good reason why something is so popular. Classics and masterpieces seem to be art because they speak to.. more people than other pieces of art. But I find it amusing in art museums when the museum makes a show of pointing out certain paintings or artists “because they’re famous,” and everyone clusters closer to ooh-aah. But… I like this painting better, I think. What makes that painting so amazing, what makes that thing better than this except that it’s popular? Is it popular because it’s popular? We’ve already been told what’s better, and we can’t have an original, unbiased like unless we… grew up in a cave?

I suppose that’s my rebellious side coming out, that makes me look anywhere but the “famous” item. I also wonder what is being overlooked. When you are on a tour, and the guide says “now look over here,” what is there where no eyes are looking? What is there in the zenith of the sky as we go about our lives?

Anyhow, on Wednesday we took an afternoon bus to Munich – or München, as the locals actually call it. The wifi on our bus did not work so I had no way to check the responses to the couchsurfing requests I had sent out… the night before. Unlike Berlin, the hostels in München were unusually very full, even on Thursday night, so if we found a room we would have to pay 2 or 3 times what we’d paid in Berlin. Once we got to München we went on a search for wifi, taking our luggage with us. It was then after 7pm, and we had no idea where we could sleep that night.

Once in Kassel, twice in Berlin, we’ve been in situations where I definitely was praying and asking God to help us out, but I didn’t feel that I deserved any help, because we could have avoided the situation. If we had planned ahead more, if we had left earlier, if we had been wiser, we wouldn’t be running or worrying. To have no bed or to be locked out of our hostel would be the consequences we were due.

When do we get our just punishment, and when are we undeservedly gifted? I don’t know the answer to that because we can’t know the answer – it’s not math equations, it’s not predictable to us. In His wisdom, God knows what you and I need at any time, and He intervenes according to His character of love, righteousness, grace… moved always by His desire to draw us to Himself, yet as a gentlemen respecting our choices.

My faith does not depend on God’s actions always being, in my opinion, “good.” Sometimes Lazurus dies, sometimes there is no water in the desert. Rather my faith rests on Who God is. Not safe, but good. A Father. A Father.

All I know is that in my life, on this trip, God has always been so much more gracious than I deserved. Everything has ended well – we have a home to stay in, and all worries are erased. Will it always be like that? I don’t count on it. But that does not shake my faith that God is acting for my ultimate good.

So yes, our Thursday night endes well. With wifi we were able to contact the one couchsurfer that said yes. He picked us up and let us join him, as he was in the way to meet friends. There was a 2-3 week summer fair going on in the Olympic park, with rides and booths, all bright lights against the full moon darkness. It was busy but not overwhelming. Him and his friends settled on a spot by the lake to wait for the fireworks, while Olivia and I went to find food, since we’d had a small lunch and it was then 10pm. Right as we started perusing all the currywurst and beer gardens set up, the booth lights and even the ferris wheel all shut off to let the fireworks show up better. Olivia and I happened upon an airbrush tattoo booth  and walked away 5 euros lighter but with some pretty sweet tats (tatts?).

We joined the huge cluster of people around the lake and watched the fireworks, which were huge and spectacular. They came out of the sky towards you, wonderfully 3D in a way I hope humans can never capture.

After the fireworks we were of one mind: FOOD. Olivia found some pizza and fries and I found some pad thai (memories of the Tetons!) and we sat down by some lederhosened men to enjoy our food. Not very traditional German fare, I admit, but we did each have a beer, courtesy of our CS host. I was good just drinking the first half… the first swallow, but Olivia goed me through the rest. Peer pressure? ;) I suppose it would be *gasp!* sacrilegious to dump out beer in Germany! I do not understand how the men next to me drank what looked like a gallon. Ok, not that much, but the cup looked big enough to drown a chihuahua.

And that was our first night in München – from having no clue where we would stay, to enjoying pad thai and fireworks with the certainty of a waiting bed!
God is good. :)

If I Was a Sculpter… //Berlin

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My gift is my blog post, and this one’s for you…
Friday was the end of our 5 day stay in Berlin. We were actually planning to travel to Stuttgart that day, but one of us accidentally bought our tickets for the 2nd instead. One of us – I won’t name names, but out of the two of us, it wasn’t me. ;)
That worked out really well, though, because it turns out there is a lot to see in Berlin. On the first day it took a while to figure out how to get to from the bus center to a station with luggage storage where we could leave our luggage while touristing (I guess tourists just tour though, not tourist). By the time we’d figured that out and had some lunch, it was almost 3pm. We took the UBahn (underground train) into the middle of the city and meandered for a while, past some Berlin sights that are apparently famous, like some tall structure that looks like a stick spearing a round marshmallow – and I assume in the spirit of the Space Needle the marshmallow holds a restaurant with expensive food – a church, a fountain, and “The Brandenberger Tor,” a large Roman style entry gate. We also went to the Humboldt University, which had a memorial to the books the Nazis confiscated from the school’s libraries and destroyed. In the courtyard that they burned them, there is a clear pane where you can look down and see white bookcases with empty shelves.
We also went to the Berlin Dome, a huge Protestant church. It looked really beautiful inside but cost about €7 to enter. Evening prayer, during which you can enter for free, was in an hour, so Olivia and I went to a nearby ice cream place and waited. Seriously, folks, it’s about one euro for a scoop of homemade ice cream, and you can find these places everywhere. It makes a great small and cheap treat during a long day on your feet.
The Berlin Dome was amazingly huge and ornate, of course. Gilded gold, statues of the 4 Gospel writers, paintings with calm people in graceful poses. I always wonder what people were thinking when they built churches like these, and as they worked on the inside making every detail so elaborate. Did they do it… cause they thought it was a church God would want? Because that was what the king ordered? Out of reverence? Or because the city’s Catholic church was also ornate and they had to match or surpass it? It sure seems like a lot of work to me, and I am always in awe of what humans can accomplish.
We spent the rest of the day in a park, where we read a book aloud while the sun set. Once the air grew cold and it began to get dark, we got back to our feet and retrieved our luggage and found our way to the apartment of a friend of Olivia’s friend who graciously hosted us.
Tuesday we bought a museum pass and set about putting it to good use. Berlin has a huge wealth of museums on a plethora of subjects, enough to keep anyone busy for weeks. We bought the 3 day museum pass for 24 euros, which is a killer deal because to visit one museum is about half that price. We went to a history museum with artifacts from Macedonia, Rome, Turkey, etc, then to an art museum. Both had three floors, and we saw everything. The outside world got a good dump of rain while we were safe inside.
All of the museums close at six, so we headed home then, with a stop at the store for some mozzarella and bread, which we turned into delish grilled sandwiches and enjoyed while watching the Lizzie Bennet Diaries.
The next day we went to another two museums, both historical. At the end my eyes and mind were tired from taking in so much, but it was good. Everyone should visit museums at least once a year. It sounds cliche, but it is mind-broadening. At the history museums you learn more, and for a while your mind is stretched to think outside of the now as you remember all the people and cultures that have come before – the people we only have dusty pots and dead languages to remember, but who were also once breathing, laughing, dreaming people that joked and cried and loved. They lived completely different yet completely similiar lives to us.
And in art museums, in a short amount of time your mind travels through such a variety of places and moments and emotions. With a just a few short steps and a turn of the head, you move from taking in an ancient battle scene to a grecian couple in love to a portrait to a cliffside castle. Every scene speaking a different feeling, sparking different memories and thoughts in your mind, with more to be found the longer you look. Is there anything else that can give you so much, in such a short amount of time?
Outside the museums there is always at least one street performer, usually a student or group of students practicing their instruments or singing. Berlin has an alive, youthful feel thanks to its colleges. I also felt like it had an undertone of… turmoil and “Po-Mo” (Postmodernism), probably due to what Germany, especially Berlin, has been through in the last half century. The Wall went down only 25 years ago, after all.
Speaking of which, we also visited the East Side Gallery that night, which is a section of the Berlin Wall still standing, every inch covered with art and signatures despite the signs asking you not to deface it..? Some art was neat and/or thought provoking, others were just… weird.
Thursday we took a day trip to Potsdam, which has a whole mess o’ palaces surrounded by large gardens, most housed in Park Sansoussci. We had time to walk through the park, see an art gallery, and take the audio tour of the palace King Frederick the 2nd lived in. We had to put large slippers on over our shoes and slid from room to room past silk wallpapers and rococo decorations and porcelain figurines, which apparently the king had a thing for. It was all incredibly ornate and detailed. Fit for a… ahh ha ha.
We walked past a few other palaces- my favorite was the Orangerie, which was in a “simpler” style. It had a sculpture every 5 feet, like every structure here seems to have, but these were of common folk – farmers, harvesters, maidens – a nice break from the Roman/Grecian gods. Seriously, I have never seen so many sculptures in my life as in those three days. If I’d been born back then, my calculating dad would have been encouraging me not to become a scientist, dentist, doctor, or computer programmer, but a sculpter, because there’d be plenty of job security.
Whew, this blog post is getting long. Still with me? Here’s a cute picture then on to Friday:


And on:
Friday we took the train to Wittenberg, as in Luther. The door. Well not the door, since it’s been 500 years and there was a fire in the 1600s. But a king (love how I remember all the history specifics?) in the 1800s comissioned another, bronze door inscribed with the 95 thesises for the church, which is the door everyone takes pictures of nowadays. It is fenced off – the whole church is undergoing restoration – but you can see it.
We also saw the outside of the old monastery Luther had attended and later lived at with his family, then we had some lunch and took a nap in a grassy park before taking the train back to Berlin. On Thursday we’d moved to a hostel closer to the bus station – Thursday night I had a fun time running the whole way to the hostel from the metro station while Olivia waited at the station with our luggage, because it was the time we were supposed to check in and I didn’t want to be locked out, paying for beds we weren’t sleeping in! Praise God, we got in and got our beds and showers. God has been so faithful on our trip, even though we’re silly young people and really don’t deserve His grace.
Friday night we tracked down a highly-rated Ethiopian restaurant in the city and I introduced Olivia to the amazingness of this unappreciated cusine. We also tried some mango beer, which was surprisingly very tasty (maybe because the beer taste wasn’t that strong?). At the end of our meal the woman taking care of us surprised us with glasses of honey wine and a gift of a Ethiopian-colored bracelet and necklace for me. Because yeah, it was my birthday. :)
But while I had a great time that day – any day the last two months could have been my birthday. I’ve had great food, new experiences, and fun times with friends every day. Yesterday was just another day chock full of God’s blessings. :)
Like this morning! Our alarm did not go off, so we woke up 20 minutes before our bus left, and got to the station 15 minutes after it’d left. But we were able to get right on the next bus, and are now safely flying down the roads to Stuttgart.
But… in our hurry I FORGOT THE ETHIOPIAN LEFTOVERS!!! A huge round container that seriously weighed several pounds, full of all the sauces, and 2 more injeras the woman had packaged up for us. SITTING THERE, in the hostel fridge, a treasure just waiting to be tossed out in a few days. :( My sorrow is very deep.
*Sigh* An end for this post, Sarah?
Try to focus instead on the people you get to meet, the cheap ice cream cones, the free nights of lodging, the fact the trip to Wittenberg was fortunately not 90 euros, that you were not locked out of the hostel, and that we can ride to Stuttgart even though we missed our bus…and yeah, and that you’re spending the SUMMER in EUROPE, not that you left Ethiopian food in a Berlin hostel fridge, now cities away.
… maybe tomorrow. :(


Halfway in Hannover

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Another week has flown by like an unlaiden swallow (European, of course), and I am now about exactly halfway through my time in Europe. But from here the pace picks up just a bit! Tomorrow we will be heading to Berlin, and from there it will be a flurry of new cities, new countries.
Weve stayed in Hannover this week, with Olivia’s host family, and the days have been relatively quiet,  but full. I apologize in advance for the went-here, did-that flavor of this blog post, which I like to avoid; I’ll try to have original and interesting thoughts for next time.
Enter bullet points!

▪ On Sunday we went to Victoria’s ballet recital. She is five, so you can imagine the adorableness filling that gym as those miniature ballerinas twirled and pretended to be birds and water fountains.

▪ Afterwards the father, Hans, took us to the Neu (new) Rathaus, or city government center. And by new I mean it was built in the 1800s, to replace the 1400 A.D. Rathaus. Inside are 4 city models of Hannover over the years. It is sobering to see the difference between the 1939 and 1945 models… few buildings remained unscathed through the war.
After we had coffee and cake by the lake, ahh.

▪ On Tuesday Olivia and I went to an American cafe for dinner. It is always interesting to see how people here portray America. We split a BLT, and Olivia was in heaven because they had root beer, something near impossible to find outside of the USA. After dinner we went to a fabulous comedy/acrobatic performance thanks to a gift certificate from Olivia’s host family. We were on the top floor of a beautiful theater with BBC Sherlock Holmes-like wallpaper. The show was well done, with tight rope walkers, tap dancers, and other fabulous feats by people made of steel. I imagined myself trying to do what they were doing and it wasn’t a pretty picture…

▪ On Wednesday I chopped off my hair, which was a bit scary – I’ve never cut it so short. It is a bit odd feeling more like a boy – like one of my brothers- but it’s fabulously quick to wash. I considered dying it bright blue, too, but I think I’ll stop with this.. ;)

▪ What else? Ice cream, barbecues on the patio, walks around the city. We saw the Aegidienkirche, which is similar to Hamburg’s St Nikolai in that it is a church destroyed during the war, that the city chose to leave as-is, for a memorial. Except seeing this church made me a bit mad, because the night we visited they had a loud rock concert with beer inside, and it sounded like that was a regular occurrence. To me that seems disrespectful to the memorial for those that died in the war.

▪ Last night we celebrated Olivia’s birthday with coffee, cake, and pizza. Lots of her friends came over and it gave them a chance to say goodbye, too. Although who knows, maybe some of them will come to visit us in WA!

▪ Friday Olivia and I went to the Hamburg Historical Museum and spent an hour wandering through, until it came to closing time. On our way out we stopped to buy some soda bottles from a vending machine, only to have an employee tell us we couldn’t leave the building with them. When you buy bottled drinks here the cost has an included 25 cent charge, which you get back if you recycle the bottles. The vending machine didn’t charge that extra cost, so the museum needed the bottles back. So Olivia and I had to chug our bottles. Europe is serious about their recycling, America should take notes!
That night we met with two of Olivia’s Hannover friends and went to an Italian restaurant. They had both been through YWAM DTS and had passions for China and Israel, so it was really cool to talk to them. And one, Silas, kinda looked like my brothers combined, so that was great for my homesick side.
We walked around the city after it got dark and met two people from Taiwan, who joined us for an hour or so. One of the neat things about going to another country is that you don’t just meet people from that country, but from all over the world. I talked to them about their lives in Taiwan, and found their answers about their schooling/careers sad. They had both taken the exam that gives you career choices based on your score. They had chosen the highest possible career because, well, it was the highest. So one was studying Finance and the other, Dentistry. But neither were excited or passionate about their subjects.
Is it a selfish luxury to do something you want to do in life? Does my belief that everyone should do something they love come from a cushioned, American, 21st century worldview? I understand there are jobs that have to be done that no one wants to do, but it also seems to me like too many people settle because they are focused on financial and cultural pressures.
Speaking of which, here are two great artworks on the subject my brother sent me a few days ago:

I’ll leave you with that, because it is too gorgeous a day to spend inside typing up a blog post. I think the shaded lawn outside is calling my name.

Castles in Kassel


There are certain stories every traveler has to have, and one of those stories is missing the bus… not as in almost missing, or even missing it for boarding, but as in riding the bus for an hour, hopping off for the lunch break, hearing the pause length wrong because the German words through the speakers were hard to discern, and coming back outside after lunch to find the bus, with all your luggage, nowhere in sight. Because yep, that happened.

So my friend Olivia and I were stuck in a rest stop in Göttingen, almost an hour drive from Kassel, our destination. We had our small purses with us but on the bus were our backpacks – for Olivia, a weekend’s worth and for me, everything I’d brought to Europe.

Fortunately, from the times I’ve been able to try it out, I am completely calm in these situations. I switch into logic mode and try to figure out what needs to be done. In this case, we needed to call the bus company, and find a ride to Kassel. Which I was thinking wouldn’t be too hard, since a lot of people stopping at the rest area were retired couples with empty seats in their cars. I picked a likely looking couple by their car, and Olivia used her German to ask if we could borrow their cell phone. Once our situation was explained, they pulled out a map and even though Kassel was out of their way, insisted on driving us to the town. Human kindness for the win.

On the drive my mind ran through what I had brought, thinking about what was irreplaceable. Really I could buy everything again – I had the most important things like my money and electronics in my small pack, with me. I hadn’t bought any souvenirs yet, since I didn’t want to carry them around. What I wanted back most was really just the backpack itself, which had already gone with me on a few backpacking trips and held my growing collection of patches from places I’d been.

At first the couple tried to find the bus station (though we’d be too late to catch it and retrieve our stuff before it continued on to Munich), which Olivia and I would later find out is a 20 minute tram ride from the center of town. When plugging in the station’s address unfruitfully brought us to nowhere, they decided to drive all the way into town and to the Haubtbahnhof (main train/bus station), where they left us with hugs and good wishes.

Our 6+ attempts to contact the bus company (do NOT ride with Flixbus) were unsuccessful, but once we found a Starbucks and wifi we emailed them and got a prompt response (?) telling us to pick up our things from a northbound bus tomorrow around 2:30. Yippee!
By borrowing several people’s phones, we were also able to make contact with a couchsurfer and secured a place for the night.

So with our worries lifted, we passed the evening walking through Kassel, which is not a small village like we’d imagined it, but a small city with lots of construction, a large tram system, and city sounds. We bought a few essentials and a cheap shirt each, and ate dinner at one of the many Turkish restaurants off of a main street. Olivia insisted I had to try a Döner, which is rotisserie cooked meat served on a plate, or as a sandwich, or in a pita (aka gyros). It came with pommes frites/fries and was good but so much I was sooo full. Olivia was equally stuffed with her meal and we agreed that from then on, we’d split one dish.

We walked back to the Haubtbahnhof, where the couchsurfer picked us up. He was unable to host us right then, but he took us to the house of his friend, Judith. We joined her and her husband on their back patio for their dinner (people here tend to eat later, though maybe it’s just summer hours?), though we only had tea. The conversation switched back and forth between German (which Olivia can speak, and I can understand the gist of) and English. We talked through the sunset until the air grew cold and they had to light some candles. It was after ten when we said “Gut Nacht” and retired for the night. Judith’s sons were grown and gone, so Olivia and I got our own bedrooms.

The next morning they had breakfast for us, as well as a printed sheet of directions for how to get from their house to town, to the bus station, and to a few sights we wanted to visit. Breakfast was the tea and coffee with the typical Brötchen (toast usually on weekdays, but they bought the step-up of bread rolls because we were guests) with choices of marmelades/cheese/meat/Nutella to put on top.

Olivia and I didn’t have to be at the bus station until 2:30pm, so we had time to visit the Grimm Brothers museum – the main reason why we’d come to Kassel. The museum was filled with artwork for the tales, mementos and history of the brothers’ lives. I made it about halfway before going outside to lie on the lawn and wait for Olivia. My body didn’t really like me that day, my stomach was upset and I had woken up with a bad crick in my neck that hurt and made it hard to turn my head right. Whee. :P I had a great nap and Olivia had a great time in the museum, though, so it was a win-win.

All familiar Subway was our lunch, then we went to wait for the bus that was supposed to come between 2:30 and 2:50, but didn’t arrive until 4pm.. yeah, don’t ride in Flixbus. But WE HAD OUR THINGS! Backpacks on, we stopped to thank God for taking care of us.
We continued on to Herkules, a monument in top of a hill overlooking the city, with a water fountain that carpets the hill down to a grand museum. And of course the water fountains had been turned on for an hour that day…at 2:30pm.

So we missed the flowing water, but we still got to enjoy the view of Kassel. We found a trail that led into a forest park on the side of the monument and our PNW hearts rejoiced in the green nature. It was great to be out of the city atmosphere. We came across another castle built Scottish style that was a bit in ruins but still had gardens and a tree-arched walkway.
We ended at the bottom of the hill, at the large and grand museum. It was about 8pm by then so it was closed, but still very beautiful from the outside.

We took the tram back into the city and hopped off to have dinner at a streetside restaurant, where we split jagerschnitzel and fries and a dessert of fried apple rings covered with an amaretto-vanilla sauce. The waiter recommended a city park to us, which we visited for a bit before heading home. By then it was almost midnight- we’d had a very long, full day. We managed to find Judith’s house again, but had a scare when our key would not work in the lock, and no one responded to the doorbell. There were a good ten minutes- or maybe it was just five and felt like ten- where we sat on their front steps, sure we were locked out for the night. Fortunately Olivia found a way to walk into their back garden, where she found the husband and we got to sleep in real beds that night after all, a good sleep before we headed back to Hannover the next day. On THAT bus ride we only chanced stepping off the bus for 5 minutes. :)

Travel tips: clarify with your bus driver just how long the stop is going to be! Don’t bring with you what you are not okay to lose. And people are very, very kind and helpful. Thank God for those people, remember to be one of those people.

It Hurts To Hold Back


Sometimes I feel like all life is made of is hellos and goodbyes and the moments in between. And sometimes the goodbye feelings… catch you by surprise. On the last day of missions class at Ecola, when I stepped up to my teacher to shake his hand and thank him, I was surprised to find myself suddenly choked up, with tears in my eyes. Thankfulness for what he had brought, who he was (strongly passionate about missions), and realizing this was the end of his classes, all combined into a stronger whirlpool of emotions then I had expected.
The same thing happened this Saturday, when I said goodbye to my German family. I double-checked I had everything from the room they’d given me, downloaded my ticket onto my tablet, and kissed their two girls, Ella and Glorie, goodbye. But when it came time to look at Anja and Janos, my hosts, “parents,” and friends for the last two weeks, I suddenly found my eyes filled with tears, my lips trembling. They prayed over me, blessing my travels, and then Janos and Glorie took me to the UBahn station. On the UBahn to Hamburg and even on the bus all the way to Hannover, my eyes kept blurring with tears as the parting touched my heart stronger than I’d expected.
It hurts to hold back tears.
Yet in some ways, I was encouraged by my blurred vision. In the last 4 years, I have built so many relationships, only to keep moving. With every connection, every touch felt and then gone, it is tempting and easier to let yourself dull, so the farewells don’t hurt as much. To keep a part of your heart detached from the moment you meet someone. To hold yourself back because you are anticipating the parting.
My tears comfort me that – this time at least – I have not hardened my heart, but let it open and share life. The Henches gave me a room, a phone, food, assistance – but more than that, they gave me a place in their family. I watched their patience and love for their kids and someday I want to have a heart for people like they do. With Anja we laughed several times so hard we cried, and enjoyed several days of sightseeing together, and with Janos we found our humor and tastes similar, so it was a joy to talk with him. I found an interest in football, I got to watch Ella take some of her first steps, and Glorie finally overcame her shyness enough to babble to me in German.

It is a wondrous mystery to me that, someday, goodbyes will be no more.

And sorry, I don’t have pictures of the family! When I take pictures I am blog minded, and it seems invasive and intrusive to their lives to put pictures of someone else on my blog. And I guess I still think about internet safety, however that would be unsafe I don’t know, but that’s what holds me back. BUT you can see what they put on the internet about their family and Calvary Church plant at http://www.hhench.de!
To the Henches:

How beautiful – the feet of those who respond “yes!” to Your call and step forth, sharing the Good News of the Kingdom!

All right, blow my nose, dry my eyes… I got emotional all over again writing this post! I’m such a female..
My friend and I are traveling to Kassel, Germany right now, to see the Grimm Brother museum, and castles.
And by the way, YEAH FOR DEUTSCHLAND!!
Neuer is my favorite. I call him “Captain Germany”.
Below are the rest of my pictures from beautiful Hamburg.

Hamburg// City of the Phoenix


Halfway through last week I thought about doing a blog post, but I didn’t feel like I had quite enough stories or pictures to share. Now I feel like I have so much, I don’t know if I’ll be able to fit it all in one post! Not that it makes a difference to ME how long my posts are, I just throw them up on the web and if anyone is willing to read through the whole thing, or read them at all (besides my mom. Love you Mom!), I think that’s pretty amazing. :)
So, you’d like to know the weekly adventures of the globetrotter, eh? I mean, everything I do right now is cool, because I’m in Europe. With the ‘everything is awesome’ song from The Lego Movie playing in the background, I could take selfies all day long and because the caption ends with “in Denmark”/”in Germany,” it would be cool.
“Walking around – in Germany!”
“Eating an ice cream cone in Germany.”
“Having a picnic in Germany.”
“Brushing my teeth – in Germany!”
“Clipping my fingernails in Germany, ooh yeah man.”
Etc, etc, and appropriate hashtags. “Everything is awesome… when you travel in Europe!” I hope you know that song & it’s well stuck in your head now. ;)
I have been in Hamburg for 10 days now, living with a family that is co-planting the first Calvary Church in this city. On weekdays I spent almost 5 afternoon hours in a classroom, learning Deutsch (Wie heißt du?). Before and after class I explore the city. In 10 days, it feels like I’ve seen a lot. I’m debating just how much to share with you, readers, because I could blab on for a while and you’d fall asleep on your keyboard and wake up with a weird imprint right before you had to go to work or a formal event, and we don’t want that, eh?

Let’s start out with some facts about Hamburg you should know:
■ It is huge, the 2nd largest city in Germany. At least 1.7 million people live in the city. It can take two hours, in good traffic, to travel from the north edge to the south edge. We are in a northern area, and it takes me about 30 minutes on the metro to get to the city center.
■ The main reason for its wealth and popularity is the River Elbe, which allows even the current largest cargo ship to sail to the city’s ports. It was also the city a lot of immigrants to America sailed from, the pre-Ellis Island.
■ The city has gone through a lot of rough times, including being burned down several times by Vikings while still young, the Great Fire of 1842, and Ally air raids during World War II. Consequentially, it had old and new buildings side by side, and buildings with pieces from different centuries.
During a free tour I took, the guide pointed out the building where the 1842 fire started. There are theories it was not accidental, because the man that owned that building was not well-liked. Can you imagine? The fire ended up jumping to the next building, barely touching the first one, and went on to destroy a fourth of the city in 82 hours. 10% of the city was homeless. If it was intentionally started, by a worker that felt slighted on wages or whatever their complaint was… then the fire would certainly be an example of how our vengeful actions affect far more than just us and our intended victim(s).
■ Because of the canals through the city, there are more bridges in Hamburg than Amsterdam and Venice combined. That’s pretty crazy to me.

Here are some of the things I have seen and done:

▪ The Rathaus, or city hall: a huge and beautiful building that took fourty-four years to plan and eleven to build. It has 647 rooms – that we know of so far. They found a door to a hidden room recently.

▪ Planten un Blomen, the largest park in the city. A beautiful place for strolling, ice cream, sleeping… it has greenhouses, ponds, a rose garden, a Japanese garden, etc.

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▪ The Hamburg Historical Museum

▪ Walked through the Alter Elbtunnel, that travels under the Elbe River – how the dock workers would get to work. It has car lifts at both ends built in 1911 that still work.

▪ Enjoyed a “fischbrotchen” by the River Elbe. No picture, I ate it too fast!

▪ Walked up St Michael’s church tower. It’s a small fee and a lot of stairs, but a great view of Hamburg.




▪ Visited Ballinstadt, an “immigration city” where many of the immigrants from Germany, Eastern Europe, etc. lived for a short while before departing to America (a handful of other destinations as well, but mainly America). It was especially interesting because my great-great grandfather left Germany for America at the turn of the 19th century. I have also been to Ellis Island, so I’ve seen both ends of their trans-Atlantic journey. There is also something moving about learning more about the stories of millions of people and families that were either fleeing something (especially Jewish families, when Hitler came to power but before the War started), or were stepping out on a hope that life in America would be better than what they had.


I salute their bravery. They had to completely let go of what they had built up, pour what wealth they could accumulate into tickets, undergo uncertainty and fear and confusion and 4 weeks of misery… and after the momentary wave of excitement swept through the ship upon the sighting of the Statue of Liberty, they had to step off the boat, and build completely new lives. It makes me proud, to be from “The Great Melting Pot” that is so young yet has been such a world-changer (mainly for good), but on the other hand I have a bittersweet feeling for the immigrants, because I know no country is perfect, and America certainly disappointed them to different degrees.

▪ A public viewing of the Germany-France game at the HeigelGeisten field: supposedly there were about 100,000 people there. I’m a bigger fan for American football (go Seahawks!), but it was neat to be in the middle of Germany’s excitement. And yes, there was lots of beer.


Public viewing of the Deutsch-Frankreich Fußball game

▪ St. Nikolai, a church which follows the pattern of destruction in Hamburg… burned in 1842, rebuilt, and then destroyed during World War II. The city decided not to rebuild the church, instead turning it into a memorial. It makes quite a striking image now, with only the blackened steeple standing, and various memorials placed in the empty space where the sanctuary once stood.
At this site the tour guide talked about Operation Gomorrha, an air raid or “firestorm” by the Allies on Hamburg during WWII. As this church burned, apparently the flames and smoke were twice as high as the steeple and could be seen for kilometers. The fire grew so hot (800 Celsius) that people trying to flee were actually pulled back towards the fire by the winds (up to 150 mph) the fire created. In the end, 50% of the city was destroyed and over 42,000 people died.
It seems fitting, that this church should remain as it has become, in the middle of the city so drastically changed by that firestorm.

▪  The Miniatur Wunderland, a huge model train exhibit started about 12 years ago with sets of America, Germany, Scandinavia, Austria, etc. Though “model trains” may sound mild to you, this is a very popular attraction – usually there is a wait because they only let in a certain amount of people at a time. Fortunately I did not have to wait to enter, but there were almost too many people inside, so I had to wait sometimes to squeeze into a space where I could see. This attraction has: 930 trains, 274 cars, 215,000 figurines, and took almost 580,000 hours of work to make- so far, that is, they are still adding new countries. Though my eyes got tired from the rotating day and night, I could have spent many more hours there, finding the details and ‘stories’ the craftsmen hid everywhere. Scuba diving cows, fairies and unicorns, monks spying on a girl in a miniskirt, the moon above the Kennedy Space Center.. you find more the more you look.


The current visitor count to the Miniatur Wunderland

▪ What else? Counting Houses built a hundred years ago by merchants, canals, the sound of streetside cafes and musicians through our class window, weekly markets, towering cargo ships… this city has been through so much – through the flames, literally – but each time it has rebuilt and recovered. On the Rathaus, below the clock, there is a Phoenix with wings spread, a symbol that completely fits the city of Hamburg.

More on language class later.



By God’s mercy I am now on the bus to Hamburg – but that whole story will come later.

My three weeks in Denmark flew by. It was so bittersweet to leave my host family, as they had really included me into their day to day life. As the father told me, I got to be involved in just a small part of what they do – I didn’t see the cheese making, sausage making, and other things they’ve done other years with more volunteers. I do believe my weeks volunteering there were God’s timing, as partway through the second week the father was injured trying to stop their rolling car from crashing into a statue. He took the whole impact, crushed between the two objects, but God rescued him from the clamp and repaired his lungs and organs so nothing was vitally damaged. He spent a few days at the hospital and not too long after he came home, a sickness passed through the rest of the family members. During the last few days of my stay, I was doing the feeding and watering for all of the animals so the mother could recover. The family mostly stayed inside, resting and cooking the meals, which I felt was a great trade. Their food was also tasty – fortunately the hard work I was doing counteracted all of the calories I was intaking. ;)

Working there brought back a lot of childhood memories, from the years when my family had goats and chickens and full garden beds. When my friends came over, we would dress up like peasants and sweep the barn until it was spotless. When I went next door to see my friend, I would tag along as she did all of her chores, helping her carry water and of course always tasting the horses’ grain before we took it to them (it always smells better than it tastes). Over time as things like.. computer games and tv shows began to fill our time, and we no longer built forts in the woods, our property became the view out our window, not so much the land we were working. Of course I’ve spent the last 3 summers away from home, so maybe it’s just that I’m not around during the working season, but still – this stay in Denmark has taken me down memory lane.
It’s funny how leaving home can make you want to come back. Being here makes me want to dig my fingers into my home soil, start some crops, learn more about our local “weeds,” try to recreate Danish food for my family. Take my new experiences back to Washington. And at the same time I want to keep going, taking in every part of every country in the world. My traveling and domestic nature are always at war, it feels.

When I led Anna back to the pasture after my last milking and let her loose, I gave her an extra affectionate rub. She had given me a few good boxes in the ear with her tail, which I knew were meant for the flies yet sometimes felt very maliciously intentional all the same, but there were no hard feelings. That cow has a great life in front of her – a fertile pasture with trees, singing birds, and elderflower bushes all to herself – gentle owners, the beautiful surrounding Danish country, and great sunsets every night.
Good bye to the chickens, to the goose I’d always been paranoid would bite me when I reached in for his water dish but never did. Goodbye to the dogs, goodbye to the ducks – especially the one I called “Gimp” who had injured his leg so it twisted wrongly behind him and he half-hopped, half-fell in a way that would gain sympathy from even a stone heart.
Goodbye to the pigs, which really are greedy and ugly and obnoxiously loud and… blegh!
Goodbye to the gardens I tended, to the roses I trimmed. Goodbye to the tree I climbed to watch the sheep. Goodbye to those wonderful sheep, who were moved from the pasture and replaced by a pair of majestic horses. Bah.
Goodbye to the family who chooses this life, with its struggles and triumphs, who chooses this sort of wealth, and who shared it with me.

Now on, on to the next day, the next stop. Speaking of stops, they dropped me me off at the bus stop Friday, where I took a bus to Aalborg and spent the night at a place I’d found on Airbnb. I’m all for saving money and sleeping in bus stations, but other people that love me don’t like that idea as much. And couchsurfing in Aalborg, like all of the other tourist services in the city, is scant.
The people that owned the apartment were leaving on a trip, so I was given keys, shown around, and within ten minutes I had a small apartment, decorated in a quite fashionable and minimalistic European style, all to myself. Myself and two big, longhaired cats, that is. I took a walk around town, which has become familiar to me, and noted that on this Friday night, people were swarming to clubs and bars, while the library was a ghost town. I’ve been there twice now and each time there was a smattering of people and nilch librarians. What is wrong with this town? An empty library is a sad sight.
Everyone here rides bikes, and I mean EVERYONE. Old, young, large, slendor, in a skirt, frumpy, suit, Europeanly fashionable. They ride bikes with quaint baskets on the front up hills without breaking a sweat (something I’ve always admired people could do, since I think I was born missing the muscles necessary.) And no one locks their bike up – they lean against apartment buildings or stand in patches dozens thick, free.
I stopped at a store on the way back and bought bread, ripe peaches, and CHOCOLATE for about $7. That made up my dinner while I read half of Job and imagined what a musical of the book would be like. INTENSE, that’s what!
Note: it is a bit hard to sleep in Denmark right now, since the sun goes down after 10 and it starts to get light again at 4am! I was up early, anyway, since my bus to Hamburg left at 7:15.
Now… I hadn’t been able to exactly get my ticket for this bus. The family I was staying with didn’t have a printer, and when I was at the library it was too short notice to let me buy online. Eurolines told me to go to the nearest travel office but it took some digging online to figure out where that was. Remember what I said about Aalborg and tourist services? Yep. By then it was almost 8pm, and everything here seems to close early, so I deduced a trip to the travel office would probably turn out to be unhelpful. I figured if I showed up at the bus, Visa in hand, willing to pay, they couldn’t turn me down, right? And I noted that there was an ATM in the bus station in case I needed cash (I didn’t want to withdraw more Danish money than necessary).
Except that it turned out, when I showed up at the bus with my plastic and a hopeful, pleading expression, the bus driver gave me a disbelieving look and said “No card. Cash – Danish kroner.” in a thick accent. 
I went inside the bus station, but the ATM was in the section still closed off for the night. The driver just shrugged unhelpfully when I asked him where the nearest ATM was, like my travel plans were of no concern to him, and told me the bus left in ten minutes.
So I hefted my backpack (which weighs under 30 lbs, a fact I’m proud of) and hurried across the street to the train station, looking for a way to obtain some Danish Crowns. No luck. I headed into the city, half-running, scanning for a bank sign, an ATM, please. The rest of my peaches fell from their bag and rolled across the sidewalk, but there was no time to pick them up. Finally I spotted a bank and ran over to withdraw 500 crowns – I wanted to have enough! I kept looking at my watch. I had 3 minutes until the bus left – if the driver stuck to the schedule, that is. From his unattached air I wouldn’t be surprised if he left 3 minutes early, spelling my doom…these buses run 4 times a week, so the next one would probably be on Monday. This was the only bus to Hamburg that day, that weekend, and I didn’t want to think about what I would have to do if I missed it. I glanced at my watch again and imagined the bus pulling from the station, sliding through the streets and away, taking all my hopes with it.
Memories of Job came to mind as I jogged. Shall we accept only good from God, and not evil? Blessed be Your name! ;)
My light pack suddenly felt very heavy as I tried to run faster, praying the bus hadn’t left. I actually asked a taxi I passed if he would take me to the bus station- then only 2-3 blocks away – but he didn’t even look my way as he shook his head no, waiting for a traffic light to change. The whole city seemed ambivalent to my situation.
The moment, the revelation – I reached the station and rounded the corner so I could see if the bus was still there or not.
And it was! The bus driver actually lifted his eyebrows and smiled as, breathless and redfaced, I handed him the crowns.
I actually never even asked if he took US dollars… but I don’t even want to go there
So, the travel story of almost missing the bus/train/plane every traveler should have. I definitely said thank you to God several times during the bus ride.
And now I’m in Hamburg! I’ll post again soon. :)

This bus ride:
Book: The Outstretched Shadow by Mercedes Lackey
Music: Any Other World by Mika, Native by OneRepublic

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